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In this guide15 sections
- The short answer
- The season: what the official sources say
- Dark places near the city, and Þingvellir
- Reykjavík or the countryside?
- Iceland’s accommodation tax: 800 ISK a room a night
- Getting in from Keflavík, and driving in winter
- Downtown 101 and the hill: the first-trip base
- The Old Harbour and Grandi: Harpa, the quays and a spa
- Hlemmur and Borgartún: the east side
- The Golden Circle side: Þingvellir and the dark sky
- The South Coast: farther from the lights
- How to book Reykjavík for the northern lights
- All 12 at a glance
- Before you go
- Frequently asked questions
Reykjavík is one of the few capitals where the northern lights can show above the city on a clear, active night, but the town’s own lights work against you. Visit Iceland says the season runs from September to April and that heading away from city lights helps, particularly when the aurora is faint. The hotel bill has its own detail: an accommodation tax of 800 ISK for every room, apartment or separately let bed, every night, on top of 11% VAT.
This guide covers five bases, 12 hotels (four in the countryside, reached by road), the season, dark places near the city, the tax, the airport buses and winter driving. The hotels are researched picks, chosen for location, what each property publishes and consistent guest feedback, and each was checked as operating in November 2026. No hotel pays to appear here. No hotel can promise a sighting, and neither can we.
The short answer
| If you want… | Stay in | Why |
|---|---|---|
| a first trip, with restaurants and tours at the door | Downtown 101 and the hill | Laugavegur, Bankastræti and Hallgrímskirkja are all within walking distance, and tour pick-ups are in the centre |
| the harbour and a spa after a night out | The Old Harbour and Grandi | Harpa, the quays and two hotels with spas |
| breakfast in the rate, parking and a lower bill | Hlemmur and Borgartún | Larger hotels in the 105 postcode and a hostel with a kitchen |
| a dark sky, a short drive from the city and Þingvellir | The Golden Circle side | ION Adventure Hotel at Nesjavellir and Hotel Grímsborgir, which lists a northern lights wake-up call |
| the most distance from the town’s lights | The South Coast | Hotel Rangá, which runs an aurora wake-up service and an observatory, and Hotel Katla near Vík |
Not sure which area? Rank these areas for your trip: pick what matters and see the reasons.
The season: what the official sources say
Months. Visit Iceland, the country’s official travel site, puts the season at September to April and says the lights are most active around the equinoxes, while midwinter offers more hours of darkness. On a clear, active night they are often visible from Reykjavík too. Hotel Rangá gives its own window as September to March.
The forecast. The Icelandic Met Office says the aurora needs dark and partly clear skies. Its forecast page pairs a cloud-cover map with activity at midnight on a scale of 0 to 9 (the Kp index), and its guidance says even grade 2 can be beautiful and grade 3 dazzling. Cloud is the thing to watch: a high number under solid grey sky shows nothing.
No promise. Visit Iceland says there are no guarantees, and that the aurora can start as a faint arc or glow. Plan for several evenings, not one.
Dark places near the city, and Þingvellir
Visit Reykjavík, the city’s official tourist site, calls Grótta lighthouse in Seltjarnarnes one of the best-known viewpoints near downtown, facing open ocean with few buildings around it. The path to the lighthouse is only usable at low tide and disappears quickly when the water comes in, so check tide times. Öskjuhlíð, a wooded hill, blocks some city light; Elliðaárdalur, Álftanes beach and Heiðmörk, a protected area with very little light pollution, are darker, and the last needs a car. The site adds that buses run until around midnight, so plan your return.
Þingvellir National Park is the usual step further out. Its own site lists parking at 1,000 ISK for a car with five or fewer seats, and the Hakið visitor centre is open 09:00 to 17:00 from November to March. It says nothing about night visits, so ring the park on +354 488 1800 before planning an evening there.
Reykjavík or the countryside?
The city gives you restaurants, buses and tour pick-ups, and streetlights. A countryside hotel gives you darkness and sometimes a call when the lights appear, but costs driving time and depends on weather. Visit Iceland says several countryside hotels offer a northern lights wake-up call. Hotel Rangá says guests press a button on the in-room phone and are called whenever the lights should appear, and Hotel Grímsborgir lists a wake-up call in its rooms. Ask any hotel what its service covers. A common pattern is two or three nights in town and one or two on the Golden Circle or the South Coast.
Iceland’s accommodation tax: 800 ISK a room a night
Skatturinn, the Icelandic tax authority, says the accommodation tax (gistináttaskattur) is charged on each sold accommodation unit, a let of up to one day and night.
| Charge | Rate |
|---|---|
| Hotels, guesthouses and other lodgings with category II–IV operating licences | 800 ISK per unit, per night |
| Campsites and pitches for campervans, caravans and similar | 400 ISK per unit, per night |
| VAT on hotel and guest-room rental (Ísland.is guidance, dated 25 January 2025) | 11% |
Per room, not per guest. Skatturinn says the unit is generally not the individual: a hotel room is one unit, each apartment a hotel lets is one unit, and where a hostel lets each bed separately, each bed is one unit. We found no switch to per-guest charging for hotels; the only per-guest charge on the page is for cruise-ship passengers, which operators have remitted since 1 January 2024. The page gives no date for the rates. ION Hotels’ own FAQ still says 666 ISK a room, so expect 800 and check the total.
Our arithmetic: two nights at 60,000 ISK a night, VAT included, is 120,000 ISK, and the tax adds 2 × 800 = 1,600 ISK, for 121,600 ISK if shown as a separate line. Two friends in two hostel dorm beds for two nights pay 2 beds × 2 nights × 800 = 3,200 ISK in tax between them. Some hotels quote the 800 ISK inside the rate and some add it at the end.
Getting in from Keflavík, and driving in winter
Keflavík Airport is about 50 kilometres from Reykjavík, by Visit Reykjavík’s figure.
- Flybus. To the BSÍ terminal one way costs 3,999 ISK for adults and 1,999 ISK for ages 6 to 15; ages 1 to 5 ride free. Flybus to hotel costs 5,299 ISK and 2,649 ISK, with a connecting shuttle from BSÍ. Return bookings and groups of four or more get an automatic discount, the coach takes about 45 minutes, and a ticket stays valid for the next coach if your flight is late.
- Strætó route 55. The public bus runs daily with twelve departures. An adult pays 2,400 ISK to Reykjavík or 1,800 ISK to Fjörður in Hafnarfjörður; ages 12 to 17 and over-67s pay half, and children 11 and under ride free. Since 1 October 2026 it stops at the terminal, at the KEF Arrivals stop.
- Taxi. Visit Reykjavík gives the ride as about 45 to 50 minutes, with Hreyfill listed as an operator.
Driving in winter. Safetravel, Iceland’s safety site, says to check that a rental car has winter equipment such as winter tyres, and that a 4x4 helps but does not rule out skidding on ice. Front and rear lights must be on at all times, and daylight is limited, so allow extra time. It points drivers to umferdin.is for road conditions and to the Met Office (vedur.is) for the weather, at least once a day, and gives 112 for emergencies. If conditions worsen, wait somewhere safe. On our check date its front page carried a wind alert for 2 and 3 November 2026 for northern Snæfellsnes, the Westfjords and Tröllaskagi: alerts change daily.
Downtown 101 and the hill: the first-trip base
Downtown is the old town between the harbour and Tjörnin, the pond. Laugavegur, the main shopping street, runs east from Bankastræti, and Skólavörðustígur climbs from it to Hallgrímskirkja. Everything is on foot, and the cost is light: this is the brightest part of the city.
Where to stay in Downtown 101
How the hotel links work: a hotel’s name goes to its own website. “Check rates” opens it on Booking.com through our partner Stay22, which pays us a commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
- Hotel Borg, splurge. Completed in 1930 and described by its owners, Keahotels, as Iceland’s first luxury hotel, at Pósthússtræti 11, with Art Deco interiors, 99 rooms from singles to the Tower Suite, and a spa with hot tubs and steam baths. Choose it for history on the central square. Watch out: spa access is promised with every direct booking; on a booking-site rate, ask. Check rates on Booking.com →
- Hotel Leifur Eiríksson, good value. At Skólavörðustígur 45, by Hallgrímskirkja, run by the same family since 1999, with 47 rooms, each with its own layout and design, a bar and a continental breakfast. Choose it for the church at the door and a family welcome. Watch out: there is no lift; the hotel says so itself. Check rates on Booking.com →
- Loft HI Hostel, budget. At Bankastræti 7, run by Hostelling International, with dorms and private rooms, a rooftop terrace, a bar and the Nordic Swan Ecolabel. Choose it for the lowest-cost bed in the centre. Watch out: the hostel says it can be lively at weekends and hands out free earplugs; children under 12 cannot stay in shared dorms. Check rates on Booking.com →
The Old Harbour and Grandi: Harpa, the quays and a spa
West of downtown, the Old Harbour runs from Harpa, the glass concert hall, towards Grandi, the harbour district with restaurants and shops among the fish sheds. It is windier and more open than the old town.
Where to stay at the harbour
- The Reykjavik EDITION, splurge. At Austurbakki 2, by the Old Harbour and steps from Harpa and Laugavegur, with bedrooms and suites looking over the harbour, Mount Esja and the Snæfellsjökull glacier. It has the TIDES restaurant, The Roof and a spa. Choose it for the harbour and Harpa at the door. Watch out: price; this is the five-star end of the city. Check rates on Booking.com →
- Grandi by Center Hotels, comfortable. An industrial-style hotel in Grandi, near the Old Harbour, with a restaurant open every day for dinner, a lively bar and the Grandi Spa. Hotel guests get 15% off the restaurant’s à la carte menu, and it holds Green Key certification. Choose it for a spa and the harbour district. Watch out: Laugavegur and the hill are a walk back through the harbour, longer in wind and sleet. Check rates on Booking.com →
Hlemmur and Borgartún: the east side
Hlemmur, at the eastern end of Laugavegur, is the old bus terminus, and Borgartún, north of it, is the business district, with the shore path and the Sun Voyager sculpture on the sea side. The hotels are larger and a longer walk from the bars, and two include breakfast.
Where to stay around Hlemmur
- Storm Hotel, good value. A Keahotels hotel at Þórunnartún 4, with 93 rooms in three types, each with a walk-in shower, breakfast included, a bar and lounge, and limited free parking. Choose it for breakfast in the rate and somewhere to leave a car. Watch out: it is in postcode 105, outside 101, so Laugavegur is a walk rather than a step. Check rates on Booking.com →
- Fosshotel Reykjavík, comfortable. Iceland’s largest hotel, with 320 rooms over 16 floors at Þórunnartún 1, many with views of the city and the bay and a breakfast service from 06:30 to 10:00. Choose it for a high-floor view. Watch out: it is built for conferences and groups as well as travellers, and feels like it. Check rates on Booking.com →
- KEX Hostel, budget. A hostel and hotel in a former biscuit factory at Skúlagata 28; KEX means “biscuit” in Icelandic. It has dorms, doubles, family rooms and a floor of hotel rooms with private bathrooms, shared kitchens, a bar open until 23:00 and a breakfast buffet at 2,700 ISK. Choose it for a social base with a kitchen. Watch out: the hostel doubles and family rooms share hallway bathrooms; book a hotel-floor room for your own. Check rates on Booking.com →
The Golden Circle side: Þingvellir and the dark sky
Two hotels sit on the Golden Circle side, away from Reykjavík’s glow and reached by car. Neither can promise a sighting.
Where to stay on the Golden Circle
- ION Adventure Hotel, splurge. At Nesjavellir, on Þingvallavatn, with 24 Deluxe rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows looking at the Nesjavellir geothermal power plant at the foot of Mount Hengill or across the lava fields towards Þingvellir, a Lava Spa, the Silfra restaurant and The Northern Lights Bar, a lounge with 180-degree panoramic windows, and free parking. Choose it for a design hotel in a lava landscape. Watch out: the hotel says route 435 is closed from October to May and still appears in GPS; from Reykjavík take road 36 towards Þingvellir and turn right on road 360. Check rates on Booking.com →
- Hotel Grímsborgir, comfortable. A Keahotels hotel at Ásborgir 48 in Grímsnes, 70 km east of Reykjavík by its own account, in the heart of the Golden Circle. Every room has a communal or private hot tub and a terrace, breakfast is complimentary, and the hotel’s room lists include a northern lights wake-up call. Choose it for a hot tub under the sky. Watch out: ask what the wake-up call covers; Booking.com gives the street number as Ásborgir 30. Check rates on Booking.com →
The South Coast: farther from the lights
On the South Coast, towards Hella and Vík, the drive from Reykjavík is longer. The hotels do not state the distance, so check the route and road conditions on umferdin.is before you set out.
Where to stay on the South Coast
- Hotel Rangá, splurge. At Suðurlandsvegur, Hella, on the banks of the Rangá river, with 52 rooms, outdoor geothermally heated hot tubs and a restaurant. It says it has offered an aurora wake-up call since 2005: press a button on the in-room phone and receive a call whenever the lights should appear. It turns off its external lights, lends snowsuits, keeps a bar open 24 hours and runs an observatory with two telescopes from late September to the end of March, opened only in clear, dry weather. Choose it for the fullest aurora service of the 12. Watch out: price, with Deluxe rooms listed from €605 and Master Suites from €1,367 on its own site, and the hotel says it can never predict when the lights appear; the observatory opens only in clear, dry weather. Check rates on Booking.com →
- Hotel Katla, comfortable. A Keahotels hotel at Höfðabrekka, near Vík, with an outdoor geothermal hot tub, a sauna, a restaurant and bar, breakfast included and free parking, which its owners place at the gateway to black sand beaches and glaciers. Choose it for a South Coast base with a hot tub. Watch out: the hotel’s page does not list an aurora wake-up service, so ask before relying on one. Check rates on Booking.com →
How to book Reykjavík for the northern lights
- Book flexibility. Cloud, wind and road alerts can wreck a night; choose rates you can change.
- Pick the base by how you will move. Without a car, stay downtown or at the harbour and use tours; the countryside hotels mean driving.
- Count the tax. Add 800 ISK a room a night if the rate does not show it; a hostel bed pays it too. The 11% VAT is already in the price.
- Compare totals. Hotel booking sites compared and booking direct or through a booking site go through where to book. For the standard city guide, see where to stay in Reykjavik; for another aurora base, see where to stay in Tromsø for the northern lights.
All 12 at a glance
| Hotel | Area | Tier | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hotel Borg | Downtown 101 | Splurge | History on the central square | Spa promised on direct bookings |
| Hotel Leifur Eiríksson | Hallgrímskirkja | Good value | The church at the door | No lift |
| Loft HI Hostel | Downtown 101 | Budget | The cheapest central bed | Lively at weekends |
| The Reykjavik EDITION | Old Harbour | Splurge | The harbour and Harpa | Price |
| Grandi by Center Hotels | Grandi | Comfortable | A spa by the harbour | A walk to Laugavegur |
| Storm Hotel | Borgartún | Good value | Breakfast and parking | Outside 101 |
| Fosshotel Reykjavík | Borgartún | Comfortable | A high-floor view | Conference scale |
| KEX Hostel | Skúlagata | Budget | A social base with a kitchen | Shared bathrooms in the hostel |
| ION Adventure Hotel | Golden Circle | Splurge | A design hotel by Þingvellir | Route 435 closed in winter |
| Hotel Grímsborgir | Golden Circle | Comfortable | A hot tub at your room | Ask what the wake-up covers |
| Hotel Rangá | South Coast | Splurge | An aurora wake-up call and observatory | Price, and the weather |
| Hotel Katla | South Coast | Comfortable | A hot tub near Vík | No wake-up call listed |
Before you go
- Mobile data. See the best eSIM for Europe and the best travel eSIM guide, and check that a plan covers Iceland before you buy.
- Insurance. The best travel insurance for 2026 explains what a policy should cover, which matters when weather disrupts a flight or a road.
- Hotel taxes elsewhere. Hotel taxes around the world, 2026 lays out how other cities charge their visitors.
- Another northern winter. Where to stay in Tromsø for the northern lights has the same season-first structure.
Frequently asked questions
When is the northern lights season in Reykjavik?
Visit Iceland puts the season at September to April. The Icelandic Met Office says the aurora needs dark and partly clear skies, so cloud matters as much as activity. Visit Iceland adds that on a clear, active night the lights are often visible from Reykjavik too, and that there are no guarantees you will see them.
Can you see the northern lights from Reykjavik itself?
Sometimes. Visit Iceland says they are often visible from the capital on a clear, active night, and that heading away from city lights helps, particularly when the aurora is faint. Visit Reykjavik names Grótta lighthouse, Öskjuhlíð and Heiðmörk among the darker places nearby; the path to Grótta is only usable at low tide.
Which Reykjavik hotels or countryside hotels offer a northern lights wake-up call?
Hotel Rangá says guests press a button on the in-room phone and are called whenever the lights should appear, and has offered the service since 2005. Hotel Grímsborgir lists a northern lights wake-up call among its room amenities. Hotel Katla's page does not list one, so ask the hotel what its service covers; none can promise a sighting.
How much is the accommodation tax in Iceland?
Skatturinn, the Icelandic tax authority, gives 800 ISK per sold accommodation unit per night at hotels, guesthouses and other lodgings with category II to IV licences, and 400 ISK at campsites and pitches. The unit is generally the room, not the guest; in a hostel that lets each bed separately, each bed is a unit. VAT on hotel rooms is 11%.
How do I get from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik?
Flybus to the BSÍ terminal costs 3,999 ISK one way for adults and takes about 45 minutes; Flybus to hotel costs 5,299 ISK. Strætó route 55 costs 2,400 ISK for adults to Reykjavik, with twelve daily departures, and since 1 October 2026 it stops at the KEF Arrivals stop at the terminal. Visit Reykjavik gives a taxi ride as about 45 to 50 minutes.
Is it safe to drive to a countryside aurora hotel in winter?
Safetravel advises checking that a rental car has winter equipment such as winter tyres, keeping front and rear lights on at all times, allowing extra time because daylight is limited, and checking umferdin.is for road conditions and the Met Office for weather at least once a day. Call 112 in an emergency, and if conditions worsen, wait somewhere safe. ION Adventure Hotel says route 435 is closed from October to May and tells guests to take road 36 and then road 360.
Sources & further reading
- Visit Iceland: northern lights in Iceland
- Icelandic Met Office: aurora forecast and instructions for the aurora forecast
- Icelandic Met Office: space weather predictions
- Visit Reykjavík: where to see the northern lights near Reykjavík
- Visit Reykjavík: Grótta
- Þingvellir National Park: parking service
- Þingvellir National Park: visitor centre
- Skatturinn: accommodation tax (gistináttaskattur)
- Ísland.is: guidelines on VAT in tourism, sale of accommodation services
- Safetravel: winter driving
- Flybus: price list and about Flybus
- Strætó: bus to and from KEF Airport, route 55
- Strætó: improved access for regional buses at Keflavík Airport
- Visit Reykjavík: from KEF to Reykjavík
- Official websites of each hotel named above, checked in November 2026
Prices, fares and hotel terms change. Every detail here was checked on 2 November 2026; confirm rates, room types and cancellation terms with the hotel before booking. The Icelandic Met Office pages were read from an archived copy dated 26 December 2025. These are researched picks, not reviews. This article contains affiliate links: hotel rates on Booking.com and other booking sites through Stay22, and tours, transfers and eSIMs through our partners; if you book through them we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. No hotel pays to be included.
Keep reading on Gently Yonder
- Where to Stay in Reykjavik Five areas, 12 hotels and Iceland's flat 800 ISK a night room tax, plus Flybus and bus 55 from Keflavík.
- Where to Stay in Tromsø Four areas, 12 hotels, the polar night dates and Tromsø's planned 3% visitor fee from 1 January 2027.
- Hotel Booking Sites Compared Hotels.com, Booking.com, Trip.com, Agoda — what each is genuinely good for.